Improvement in means foe measuring and laying out garments



@einen @faire @einer @fitta JACOB `Inl-MLM, JR., 0F :NEWTOWNL VIRGINIA,-ASSIGNOR To I IMsELF,y

l I. w. YEAKELL, AND o. o. KLINE, 0F SAMEv PLAGE.

Letters Patent No. 71,520, cZateaZNovember 26, v1867.

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TO ALL'WHOM IT MAY CONCFRN:

-Be it known that: I, JACOB -LEMLEAL- Jr., of Newtown, county ofFrederick, and State of Virginia, have invented certain new"v and usefulImprovements in :Graduated Rule for Cutting Garments; and I do herebydeclare-thatthe following is a full, clear, and exact description of thesame, reference being had to the annexed drawings, andftc the letters ofreference marked thereon, andmade a partei' this specication, in which-Figurel is a full'view of thebreastplate of the former.

Figure 2 is` a full view of the back and shoulder-plate ofthe former.

Figure-3 represents ve of the series of graduated scales used by me.

These drawings are all vdrawn on a half scale;

The nature of my invention consists in combining with .a stationaryformer or rule, on which are indicated all the angles necessaryforcutting the garment as Well as Aa guide-table of distances,'a seriesof,l graduated scales which are entirely independent of Athe formerbnt.are so` arranged that they can4 be readily attached thereto and'detached therefrom, thus enabling me to kcut -on a single former, 'whoseangles and distances are arranged for a person ofthe smallest size, a.garment suited to and that will iit a person of the largest proportions.i, i

l Y To enable others skilled inthe art to make and use my invention,I"`wi1l proceed to describe its construction and operation. v A is aformer for the breast-plate, and is so arranged that all the angles anddistancesnecessary to be india Y cated in marking out-the material iorthe breast und under-arm cut are fully shown. B is a former similar indesign to AA, but intended for the' back. Both A and B are foi-merswhich are arranged, as to distances and in all othergespects, to suit aperson measuring tweuty-seveninches around the chest. When a largergarment 'is to be cut, I apply one of theA series of graduated scales,as shown in red in figs. 1 and 2. C is'the centrect` fthe under-arm cut.D D, area. series of graduated scales, extending from 27 to 47,'only veof the series being shown, but lwhich are twenty-one in number.- Theiignres and distances that are spaced oli' onA-these scales are theresult of actual measurement. a a show the different poin-ts or angleswhich it is necessary to mark on the material in order properly to cutout the desiredpattern. 6 b are a series of lines, which all radiatefrom the centre C of the armhole. On these lines -ai'e various numbers,which are of no importance when the garmentl is intendedfor a person oftwenty-seven inches around the breast, for the di'erent angles areobtained simply by placingvthe former'on the material and dotting downthe distances at the various points a a. But when thegarment in intendedfor a personmeasuring over twenty-seven inches, so that one of theseries of graduated scales has to be used, the numbers on the lines b bbecome indispensably necessary, as will be hereafter fully described.

The operation, when one of the series D ofthe graduated scales is used,is as follows: The series asused by me is composed of twenty-one stripssuitably spaced and marked. These strips are numbered 27, 28, and so .on

up to 47. Suppose the person for whom the coat is intended` measurestwentynine inches around the chest,V

then 4the scale marked '29 is used in connection with the former, asshown in red in g. 2.- Ifhe measures fortyseven inches, then the scalemarked 47 is'used, as shown in red in iig. 1. n

- Toillustrate the principle, let us take the scale-stripD marked 47,and apply it to the former, which is done by passing a pin or needle,@through the edge of thestrip, and also through the opening in thecentre of the arm-hole C, and thence to the table or board on which thematerial rests. It .will be observed that the pin or needle acts as apivot, and furnishes a centre bearing'for the strip D. When thisscale-strip D is applied to the first line b we iind the ligure 3; thisgure shows the distance from the centre of the first angle required.Instead of making the mark at a,.we run along the scale until we come tothe figure 3, and there make the mark, whichwould be at about the pointd. We then revolve the scale until we come to the next line b, which :ismarked 6%. nsteado marking at a, werun along the scale until we reach6%, and there make the mark, as

`shown at e, and so cn until we have all thedistances properlyascertained and suitably marked. The former B is shown `with thescale-strip D which is marked 30 applied'. TheA principle by'which it isoperated is precisely similar to that before illustrated;

The only thing required to be done in order to cut a garment of anydesired size is toascertain the number of` inches the personvmeasursaround the chest, then take the scale-stripvD which is marked with thesame number and apply it to the former, as shown, and then revolve. thestrip, stopping at each line b, marking the diiferent angles on thematerial in the manner described.

By my plan I amI enabled to cut the arm-hole, which is usually the mostd iilcult point, with perfect aecu-4 racy and great facility. Find thefigure 3 on the scale, commence at the'pointf, and draw a curved line,stop` ping at f, which it will be observed by reference to fig. 1 is alittle more .than a semicircle, then make a straight cut fromf, which isthe front of the arm, to the point marked f, which is the lowershoulderlpoint, and the entire work of cutting the arm-hole isaccomplished.

The great advantage of this invention consists in its estremesimplicity. The seriesof graduated sealest'rips being entirely free andindependent of the former, if care is taken .in selecting the one whosenumber is the same as the inches the person measures around the chest,it is impossible for a mistake to occur, there being nothing to confusethe operator, as is Athe case when all the tables of distancesand'angles are spread out on theY sheet which contains thepattern-plate. i

Having thus fully descrihedvmy invention, what I claim therein as new,and for which I desire Letters Patent, is v *The combination of theformers, on which are indicated 'a single table of measurements, with aseries of graduated scales, said scales being entirely independent ofeach other and of the former, but so arranged as to be susceptible ofbeing readily attached to and detached from the former, substantially asdescribed.`

, In` testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification inthe presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JACOB LEMLEY,'JR. Witnesses:

JOHN D. BLoon, :JOHN S. HoLLrNesnEAn.

